The ecosystem of the Klamath
Mountains and the Rogue canyon is a complex mosaic of
plant communities that provide homes for a wide variety
of wildlife. Geologic complexity and a long history of
relatively mild climate have created a haven for a
diverse mix of plant and animal species, some of which
represent prehistoric environments that have long since
disappeared elsewhere.
Among the tree species found along
the river are California black oak, canyon live oak,
Oregon white oak, bay, bigleaf maple, madrone, Douglas
fir, and red alder. A wide variety of flowering plants
bloom in the spring, including azalea, the fragrant
white blooms for which the rapid Blossom Bar is named.
An abundance of birds and other
wildlife make the Rogue canyon their home. Osprey, bald
eagles, hawks, water ouzels, heron, and a variety of
songbirds are seen. Raccoons, river otters, deer, mink,
black bear, bobcat and other mammals are here, too.
Steelhead, Chinook and Coho salmon either live in the
river year-round or migrate up-river to spawn. (Sadly,
in recent years their numbers have been decreasing, due
to the combined effects of overfishing, damming the
river’s upstream reaches, and increased siltation due to
logging, farming, and urbanization.) Also found in the
Rogue are sturgeon, bluegill, smallmouth bass, catfish,
sculpin, and shad. Trout are native to the larger
tributaries, such as Big Windy, Kelsey, and Missouri
Creeks.
Geology of the Rogue River Region
The Rogue River country, which is a
part of the larger Klamath Mountain Province, is one of
the most structurally complex regions in Oregon. This
complexity is due to the region’s position at the edge
of the continent, and the role that plate tectonics
played in the evolution of the area.
150 million years ago (during the
Jurassic period) rocks were being deposited along an
ancestral North American coastline. Simultaneously,
movement of the Earth’s crust caused the floor of the
Pacific ocean to begin to move towards the mainland. The
Pacific and North American plates collided. Volcanoes
generated by the collision developed into an offshore
island chain. As this collision continued, pieces of the
sea floor were pushed up against the mainland. The
Klamath Mountains are built both of fire and water.
Today we see evidence of volcanism, and one can find
ancient sea floor, which once was hidden under three
miles of water, now perched two to three thousand feet
above sea level.
Oregon’s portion of the Klamath Mountains was
originally situated 50 miles south of where they are
now. About 100 million years ago they broke loose from
the mainland along a fault which slowly moved them into
their present position. Finally, beginning 50 million
years ago, the area was uplifted and distorted, then
eroded to create the rugged topography we see today.
Rogue Geology at River Level
In the vicinity of Galice the
Galice formation is exposed in the river bed and
along the banks. Elsewhere the Galice formation is in
excess of 15,000 feet thick, but here we see only a thin
slice of that. Rocks of the Galice include mudstones and
some black shales. In addition to the mudstones, the
Galice bears a thick section of volcanic rocks, some of
which, unlike the mudstone and shale, are relatively
coarse-grained and very resistant to erosion. In places
the Galice mudstones and shales have been altered by
heat and pressure to form hard slate.
As the river winds northward out of
Galice we very quickly pass from the Galice Formation
into the older rocks of the Rogue formation.
These rocks originated as submarine lava and ash flows
around a chain of volcanic islands. Most of these rocks
have been altered by heat and pressure since their
formation to create the hard, resistant rocks we see
today. Rainie Falls exists because the extra-hard rock
found there is resistant to the river’s erosion. Rainie
is a good place to view banded metamorphic rock called
gneiss, as well as veins of a pale, pea green mineral
called epidote.
Landslides are common in the Rogue
River canyon. One slide, which occurred near Whiskey
Creek in the late 1800’s, dammed the river for a time
and backed water 15 miles upstream to Hellgate.
Down river near Tyee Rapid the Rogue
formation is replaced by the Dothan formation,
which dominates the next 20 miles of river. This
formation is composed mostly of sandstone, with some
siltstone and mudstone also present. In places along the
river these rocks have been warped into tightly bunched
folds by the forces that created the Klamath Mountains.
At Horseshoe Bend the river begins a
dramatic detour around a hard, quartz-rich wall of rock
that temporarily deflects the river from its course.
The change from Dothan back to the
Rogue Formation rocks occurs just below China Bar. Less
than a mile downstream the river bends sharply to the
left and follows an ancient fault line through Mule
Creek Canyon. Here Dothan formation rocks comprise the
left (east) wall and Rogue formation rocks the right.
During the 1964 flood the river level was 80 feet higher
here than it is at normal summer flows.
At Blossom Bar, the river’s most
legendary rapid, evidence of the power of flowing water
is a dramatic sight. The boulders — which create the
rapid’s channels, waves and obstacles — were carried
down tiny Blossom Bar Creek, from a mile or more
upstream, during a flood on that creek.
Below Tate Creek the Rogue formation gives way to the
Flournoy formation. These marine rocks are evenly
bedded layers of sandstone and siltstone, as well as
conglomerates, which create the unusual and striking
formations seen near Flora Dell Creek. At 50 million
years old this is the youngest geologic formation along
the river.